Sipping Wines Made in a Cave on the Greek Island of Milos

The Greek Island of Milos is an absolute dream! And while otherworldly landscapes surrounded by all the shades of blue are its main appeal, they also have a few grapevines that turn into wines well worth a taste.

When there’s talk of Greek island wines, Santorini dominates, and Crete likely comes next. The nerds might think to add in Kefalonia or Limnos, but Milos is rarely mentioned. With less than ten hectares planted on its 61-square-mile surface, and few bottles ever leaving the island, it makes sense. But, Milos does indeed produce some peculiar, mineral-driven sips that make “the island of lovers and colors” that much more enticing for any wino ferrying around the Cyclades. Hence, how I ended up there :)

You see, the Cyclades islands are mostly the peaks of mountains submerged in the Aegean Sea, save two volcanic exceptions: Santorini and Milos. My thinking was that if Santorini got me so giddy, surely Milos would have the same effect. I was correct, my love for lava prevailing!

Most wine on Milos is made for the maker; artisan takes on indigenous varieties like Assyrtiko, Monemvasia, Mandilaria, and Aidani. There is, however, one (and only one) winery on the island, set in the spilias (Greek caves) of the laid-back northeast: Kostantakis — Milos Cave Winery.

Near the idyllic seaside village of Pollonia, and a mere 300 meters from the coast, Kostantakis is a family-owned and operated affair that was officially established in 2013. But, this is Greece, so of course vines were planted long before Kostas Mallis decided to revive his family’s heritage and create his rock-hewn winery.

Look, in my book, caves are cool. Dank holes in the earth with fascinating features, like the blind, albino crabs that evolved in Lanzarote’s Jameos del Agua, or the world’s largest ribbon stalactite that formed right in my home state of West Virginia at Smoke Hole Caverns. So, when you design a winery in the lambent white walls of caves in Milos, you have my FULL attention.

Add that to lush greens and yellows contrasting with basaltic blacks and reds above, and it’s a whole moment. Get there right before the rays of gold take over magic hour, and please, remember me, close your eyes and send me a slice…

Kostantakis — Milos Cave Winery is open daily, May through October, from noon to 9 p.m., no reservations necessary unless you’re looking for a guided tour. You can still see everything on your own, however, go traipse around the vineyards and admire the tanks tucked into the walls of white volcanic tuff. Most importantly, you can taste everything they make while lounging at their trendy little patio with soft beats and local treats. Expect a solid two hours of pleasantries and sampling for around €25 per person. A big shout-out to George, who led me through the tasting with ample knowledge from vine to bottle.

True to their Greek heritage, Kostantakis wines are girthy and have a bite. Expect lots of ripe fruit with subtly smoked salt. My favorite was their Assyrtiko with a touch of Monemvasia blend. A sip hears Sly and the Family Stone’s “Thank You( Falettinme Be Mice Elf Agin)”. Groovy white peaches, yellow peaches, canned peaches, and peach rings strut to lemons and zany honey. It’s not something you spell out, but rather one that rolls off the tongue.

The best wines I’ve ever had in my life? No, but it’s an experience I’ll never forget. And those are pretty fun to have.

Visiting the only winery in Milos is more about the moonflower-perfumed stroll there through picturesque Pollonia. It’s about walking ten minutes after your tasting to sit in front of the sea and feast on the day’s catch. It’s enjoying the bottle you bought in a cave a few nights later with a game of chess, body worn from hours in the Aegean.

I only gave myself two nights in Milos, but could have easily done a week. Rent a four-wheeler, and go wild! I would go to Milos over Santorini any day if your primary purpose is not wine-related. No slights toward Kostantakis; Santorini is the Cycladic epicenter of wine, fact. And there are a lot of really cool wines from that rugged rock right now! But that’s for another story.

If you’d like more tips on where I stayed, dined, and other such things, just shoot me an email and I’d be happy to share!